Loewe’s spring 2025 collection was full of larger-than-life shapes meant to subvert the norm—and above all else, take up space. This was evident from the very first model who walked the runway, wearing a cloud of a white bell-shaped dress printed with gray florals and styled with upside-down aviator sunglasses.
The tutu has been experiencing a major moment this season, with designers of all kinds playing with its form (including Anderson himself for his own JW Anderson line, which showed at London Fashion Week). The designer has yet an another suggestion for a spring 2025 It silhouette: the modified hoop skirt. The style was the framework for all of the big sheer dresses dripping with dramatic floral prints in fine gossamer fabrics at Loewe. The tutu also seemed to inspire most of the leather jackets, which had almost comically flared hems. Skirts billowed everywhere, twisting and curving in different directions. A tutu is kind of a classic, especially with fashion’s ballet obsession. But a hoop skirt? Much more extreme.
Texture was also the star of the show. Shield-like dresses floated by with dropped shoulders, and bell-shaped leather jackets came one after the other. Anderson clearly knows Loewe’s biggest fans are diehards for surreal-tinged fashion that plays with proportion, and there was no shortage of it here. Stiff, sequin cobalt mini dresses sparkled, while blazers with XL sleeves scrunched, bunched, and crumpled revealed a visionary way to wear suits. Tailored trousers were reworked into mini flared skirts, and some of the garments in the collection had a clear paper doll effect. (Those bouncing hemlines only solidified the doll-world concept.) A khaki jacket had its hem blown back like it was caught in the wind. Subtle prints collided with draped, oversize khakis and tropical-print, sarong-style pants. It was a fantasy that only Anderson could have concocted. And yet, in the show notes, he spoke of “radical reduction. What happens when one takes all the noise away?”
If the big dresses didn’t catch the Loewe superfan’s eye, there were plenty of understated quirks one had to look twice at to catch. Was that a sweatshirt made of gray insulation material…bearing a screen-printed image of Johann Sebastian Bach? A flared coatdress fabricated from what looked to be dragon scales? Maybe, just maybe. In weird times, fashion craves clothes that are sometimes stranger than fiction.
