Fashion designers have had a love affair with airlines for many a year, right back since the first flight attendants took to the skies. The uniforms started out as being very functional and practical and by nowadays standards, quite boring. Some airline uniforms have stood the test of time, while others have just been a mere reflection of society and high-end fashion.
A little history
Many flight attendants were originally nurses, so that dictated the original uniform until it became inspired more by the military and navy. Blazers and culottes became part of the uniform, even if they were worn with high-heeled shoes. From the 1940s, it became very much a female occupation and something that epitomized glamour, elegance, and charm.
One of the first official designer uniforms was by Howard Greer for Trans World Airlines or TWA in 1944. It was a sleek grey/blue suit with a cutout trim on the collar reading TWA. The flaps on the shoulders allowed the flight attendant not to be identified as one when off duty by simply folding down the flap. This was a time for glamour and it was also functional and was not retired until 1955.
Photo: San Diego Air and Space Museum.
Perfect image
During the 1950s, the image of the flight attendant was portrayed as youthful and attractive and uniforms became more form-fitting. They had to be a certain height and weight and fit into the ‘cookie cutter’ image requested by the airline.
By the 1960s, the airlines really went high fashion, with the likes of Marc Bohan at Christian Dior inspiring the Air France uniform of 1962. Cristobal Balenciaga designed a more aeronautical uniform for them in the late 1960s. Coco Chanel designed a flight attendant uniform for Greece’s Olympic Airlines with her signature jacket, bows, and pillbox hat. Pierre Cardin then took on the role with a mini dress, cape, and bonnet hat, reflecting the fashion of the late 1960s.
Photo: Air France
Times of change
In 1968, Pierre Balmain created the ‘Singapore girl’ look for Singapore Airlines which reflected the country’s culture, tradition, and hospitality. This is the longest-standing flight attendant uniform of all time and still is worn today. Meantime, in 1965 Don Emilio Pucci was designing the uniform for Braniff International Airlines and produced somewhat unusual designs with clashing prints and plastic bubble hats.
The uniform was very fashion-forward and definitely a talking point. During the 1960s and 70s, flight attendants were becoming more sexualized and a selling point for the airlines, in their advertising. Uniforms were getting shorter and hot pants were being worn. Flight attendants were seen as promiscuous and available.
Photo: SFO Museum
In the 1980s and 1990s, more males were starting to work onboard aircraft and the role started to be seen in a different light. The image became that of a safety professional and almost back to the elegance and glamour of the 1950s. There was still a nod to fashion but the airline uniform became more practical once more. British Airways had commissioned their uniforms from designers such as Roland Klein and Paul Costello.
Photo: British Airways
2000 onward
Air France continued to move forward with their chic contemporary uniforms with Christian Lacroix in 2005. At the same time, Gianfranco Ferre was designing Korean Air’s recognizable blue and white uniform with a floating scarf.
Zac Posen worked with Delta Air Lines and Prabal Gurung with All Nippon Airways. Qantas commissioned Martin Grant for their signature look and Vivienne Westwood designed for Virgin Atlantic. Alberta Ferretti worked on Alitalia’s flight attendant uniform and Ettore Bilotta with Turkish Airlines.
Photo: Qantas
The secret?
Airlines do a lot of research into their uniforms to ensure they offer practical and functional, but also a signature look for the airline. Many airlines keep their uniforms for a period of ten years or more, so they have to stand the test of time.
Indeed, flight attendants are on the frontline and the image of the carrier, so it’s crucial they get it right. Fashion designers have the imagination and creativity but for them too, it is a dream to design an iconic uniform that is elegant yet practical and forward-thinking. There is no doubt that this collaboration will continue and flight attendants will always be dressed to impress.
