Cohen and West flesh out their story with talking head interviews from contemporary celebrity chefs like José Andrés, Ina Garten and Marcus Samuelsson, friends of Julia’s, a treasure trove of footage from her many, many hours on television and some mouth-watering food porn. The filmmakers were smart to get some modern shots of her recipes being prepared—Childs’ shows might be classics, but food photography has evolved for the better.
While “Julia” is very much a celebration, it doesn’t shy away from complexity, including her questionably cold treatment of her co-author and friend after their initial success. The filmmakers strain at times to include as much as they can in 95 minutes, which is no small feat for such a documented life, however the experience begins to feel a little rushed and undercooked. I would have liked a tiny bit more inquiry into why American households in the 1950s were favoring convenience over the ways of their old-world parents and grandparents or butting up against health food movements in the 70s and 80s, for instance.
It’s still a satisfying and fun tribute to someone whose impacts on modern food culture and celebrity are still being felt. Just don’t go in hungry.
“Julia,” a Sony Pictures Classics release, is rated PG-13 by the Motion Picture Association of America for “some thematic elements, sexual reference, brief strong language.” Running time: 95 minutes. Two and a half stars out of four.
