A man and a woman walk into a bar. At the Cowboy Star bar, there’s no punchline, but my husband and I had plenty of laughs, excellent food and an enjoyable evening.
The bar, part of Cowboy Star Restaurant and Butcher Shop, is unexpectedly popular, even early in the week. A lot has to do with its misnamed happy hour, which is two cheerful hours from 4 to 6 p.m. daily, featuring special drink and food prices. Although it wasn’t long, we didn’t anticipate a wait for a table or bar stools. Once seated, though, we took advantage of the specials and other items from the regular bar menu.
In keeping with the cowboy theme, the bar’s Western decor includes Gene Autry movie posters, leather seating and cowhides. Copper, wood and metal on the walls and ceiling help absorb the sounds while providing a contemporary look.
Our food orders included shrimp and potatoes bravas ($12), stuffed mushrooms ($8 or $5 during happy hour), roasted cauliflower ($11 or $6 during happy hour) and grilled sausage ($11 or $7 during happy hour).
Everything was well-prepared and provided a range of flavors and textures. I’ll save my favorite for last; otherwise, I’ll describe each in the order in which it was served.
Baby bella mushrooms are filled with a blend of cream cheese and bacon. It sounds simple and that’s part of the appeal. But there’s more. The six stuffed mushrooms, served in a small oval-shaped cast iron pan, are topped with sauteed spinach and thin strings of fried onions.
According to the menu, there’s a daily house-made sausage. Ours featured blackberry and maple. Traces of the berry are evident both visually and on the taste buds.
I had a harder time detecting the maple. Whole-grain mustard, sauerkraut and dill pickles are served on the side.
The roasted cauliflower includes roasted red pepper, pickled cauliflower and raisins. When prepared this way, cauliflower takes on a caramelized, nutty flavor. The addition of the other elements, including vadouvan curry sauce, in Cowboy Star’s rendition further elevates the veggie.
As much as I appreciated all of the above, along with the beverages we ordered, if I was limited to having just one item on the menu, it would be the shrimp and potatoes bravas.
There were only three plump shrimp in the order, but thanks to the extraordinary spuds, that didn’t matter. Chunks of potatoes are fried to get a crispy exterior, almost like a shell. I suspect they may be fried twice to get such a crunch. This encases the butterlike creaminess within.
That’s not all. Garlic and roasted pepper aioli add a pleasing level of spiciness.
Selected beer, wine, well drinks and specialty cocktails are part of the happy hour menu. Prices range from $4 to $7.
Even during our short wait to get into the bar, we were served water, given menus and drink orders were taken. Service was outstanding. Clearly busy, Sean, our server, was attentive and patient in his explanation of the menu. Cowboy Star’s other menus (lunch and dinner) are offered in the bar, but that’s the only place the small bites menu is available.
Cowboy Star Restaurant Bar
Description: Small bites
Location: 5198 N. Nevada Ave.
Contact: 1-719-639-7440; cowboystarcs.com/
Bar prices: $5 to $22 (range includes Happy Hour prices)
Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. daily (Happy Hour from 4 to 6 p.m.)
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi.
Favorite dishes: Shrimp and potatoes bravas
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available
