Plying power for good is an admirable approach to exercising widespread influence. Austrian fiber firm Lenzing embodies that outlook through its take on leading sustainability trends in both fashion and home textiles markets as it steadily steers the industry toward a circular economy and carbon neutrality.
Well-versed in addressing demands and providing solutions across various segments of the textile market, Lenzing’s push to improve the industry-at-large goes far beyond product. But it begins with its flagship brand TENCEL™, a consumer-facing fiber brand known for its branded lyocell and modal fibers, produced by environmentally responsible processes and derived from sustainably sourced, natural raw material wood that is touted for its diverse range of applications for sustainable textiles.
Closing the Loop
The teams behind the TENCEL™ brand said that in looking back on 2022 and into 2023, circularity is continuing to scale toward the industrial level.
According to a McKinsey & Co. report, circularity and closed-loop systems have been recognized as the “most important lever” fashion can leverage to address its environmental impact and noted that 60 percent of fashion executives have already invested or planned to invest in closed loop recycling this year.
TENCEL™ said that its collaborations across denim, ready-to-wear and intimates within the past year have “sought to bolster this,” and further Lenzing’s circular economy vision. Key collaborations include its work in denim, notably a partnership with H&M that used TENCEL™ Lyocell with REFIBRA™ technology – a cellulose fiber made from upcycled cotton scraps and wood – to create an 8-piece limited-edition men’s denim collection that materialized circular fashion.
For ready-to-wear, the TENCEL™ Limited Edition x COREVA™ collaboration explored the use of alternative raw materials such as hemp in textile production, and the result was a pairing of two technologies: Lenzing’s TENCEL™ limited edition hemp and Candiani Denim’s COREVA™, the first biodegradable stretch denim in history, according to Lenzing.
Caroline Ledl, Head of Product Management Textiles, Lenzing Group, said the company “created the TENCEL™ Limited Edition initiative in 2021 to explore the use of alternative raw materials, such as hemp or orange pulp, in textile production.We wanted to push the traditional boundaries of fiber production by leveraging natural resources.”
“We value working with like-minded companies, such as Candiani Denim, who have similar environmental goals to ours and we are excited to see what customers think about products made with this new TENCEL™ Limited Edition hemp fiber,” Ledl added.
Already in motion is a push toward textile and fabric applications with carbon-zero TENCEL™ branded lyocell fibers, in furtherance of TENCEL™’s mission to deliver ‘True Carbon Zero.’ “As more brands and retailers see fit to green up their value chains, they have selected carbon-zero TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers to do so,” said Ebru Bayramoglu, Head of Global Business Development in Textile Business, Lenzing Group.
For 2022, these brands include Jacaranda, a UK-based luxury carpet and rugs brand, which took the first step to launch the world’s first collection of handwoven carpets and rugs made from 100 percent true carbon-zero TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers.
“We foresee a continuous demand on this in 2023 and more collections using carbon-zero TENCEL™ branded fibers will come to market next year, particularly in Asian markets,” Ebru added.
Also of note is its TENCEL™ Tree Climate fabric collection designed for the activewear segment, focused on sustainable, functional outdoor fabrics that offer moisture management, thermal regulation, optimum breathability, and a reduced carbon footprint. Through ultra-thin base layers, biodegradable wadding and water and wind repellent outer layers made of TENCEL™ lyocell fibers, its collection offers a sustainable activewear option that answered the call of consumers’ demand in this category.
Heading into 2023
Looking ahead for 2023, Lenzing anticipates increased versatility for even greater sustainable fabric offerings and continued innovation through an exploration of different texture, fiber applications and technology to expand the use of TENCEL™ fibers as well as color and print offerings.
The firm hopes to bolster TENCEL™ fibers, particularly TENCEL™ Lyocell, beyond their typical application areas, with an eye on winterwear, home and nightwear and clothing for formal wear – segments “that have more room for application developments with TENCEL™ Lyocell.” Known for its efficient moisture management, TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers are more often used in summer clothing or textile items that require a smooth, clean and cool hand feel. But as we enter winter, TENCEL™ anticipates that warm fabrics will increase in demand.
“In addition to the seasonal change to winter, we also face an energy crisis this year, which will encourage many people to turn to warmer clothing this winter. This gives us the motivation to explore use of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers in flannel and fleece fabrics for cozier, comfort-driven clothing,” said Hale Saraçoğlu, Head of Global Business Development, Fashion Wovens & Sweater Knits.
Lenzing is also seeing a growing need in printed fabrics, as “What’s traditionally an essential for women’s collections is now also used extensively for men’s collections,” Saraçoğlu noted. And as such, a printed TENCEL™ Lyocell blended fabric collection is in the works to inspire brands looking to enhance their collections with sustainable alternatives to printing fabrics, which has traditionally relied on the use of synthetics, cotton, or viscose fibers for production. The collection will consist of a variety of vibrant digital prints with clean finish and peach finish on fabrics made of 100 percent TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers as well as TENCEL™ Lyocell blended fabrics.
“Fashion is more conscious about using more sustainable fibers in fabrics, and it is the same for printed fabrics. With its low environmental impact, smoothness, moisture management properties and versatility, TENCEL™ Lyocell gives printed fabrics a breath of fresh air,” Saraçoğlu said.
Apart from prints, on the denim side of the business, Lenzing is also seeing a demand for more colors beyond indigo.
As for the luxury segment, where responsible filament solutions are in high demand, Lenzing said there is an increased interest in expanding the use of TENCEL™ LUXE to fill the needs. Created via eco-filament technology, the botanic, biodegradable filament is suitable for a wide range of applications and fabric developments with endless possibilities – from finer, silk-like high fashion and premium propositions to denim constructions, seamless and activewear innovations, premium cotton blends for shirting, and even agricultural and technical solutions. The expansion of TENCEL™ LUXE into other segments comes timely as occasion wear swiftly comes back into focus through Q4 and beyond.
