Poor exterior signage and limited lighting in the dark parking lot were sources of frustration when trying to find Roots Café. Once inside, that annoyance immediately dissipated thanks to the warm aloha welcome from co-owners Mama D. (who’s also the chef) and Pastor Pam (explanation to come).
Mama D. serves up “Local Hawaiian Favorites,” and, in the seven months it’s been open, Roots Café has established a following among relocated islanders and others who, after discovering this hard-to-find pearl, become regulars.
The restaurant doubles as a nondenominational church — or the other way around, depending on one’s perspective. This review focuses on the food side, which, at the risk of sounding disrespectful, is heavenly.
There’s no menu; instead photos, names and prices of the available entrees and sides are posted on the wall. “I like to keep it simple,” Mama D. said. Even with only 10 options, including combination plates, it’s still difficult deciding.
The most popular items are the kalbi ribs ($12), katsu chicken ($10) and teriyaki chicken ($9), according to Pastor Pam. Mochiko chicken ($10) was listed as “Today’s Special,” but is likely to remain since it’s garnered a lot of praise — I can attest it’s well-earned.
Mama D. said the hamburger steak ($9) is something that often surprises diners. The assumption is it’s just a hamburger patty smothered in gravy. That’s true to a point, but here the concept is magnified. This brown gravy is not a standard soupy sauce; it’s rich and thick with a trace of, perhaps, soy sauce. The burger is a thick patty, but well-seasoned to the point it bears no resemblance to its fast-food namesake. It’s served over white rice. “I tell people to think about Salisbury steak,” Mama D. said. “But it’s more.”
For a dollar extra, a fried egg is served over the meat (and covered with gravy), thus creating a Loco Moco. Legend has it that this has its origins as a hangover meal, but being completely sober didn’t inhibit our enjoyment.
The mochiko chicken is bite-size pieces of chicken lightly coated with rice flour and deep fried. The crunchy outside belies the tender, juicy meat it encases. An orange-colored aioli, a combination of a red pepper sauce mixed with mayonnaise, is drizzled over the top, adding a subtle spicy element. Chopped green onions provide more color.
Kalbi ribs are thin slices of bone-on beef short ribs that have marinated in a sweet and tangy sauce. When cooked, a sticky glaze forms, making these messy to eat but worth every napkin used in the process. A slice of grilled pineapple and sesame seeds are added for garnish.
Most entrees come with two mounds of white rice and macaroni salad. Beverages are limited to bottled water and can sodas, including a selection of Aloha Maid juices.
Mama D.’s kitchen is a food truck parked in the back. Sometimes, it’s parked in front of the cafe, and it is often part of food truck events around town. On those occasions, the cafe is closed.
“Aloha” is used when someone arrives or leaves. Another definition is an expression of love and fellowship, which makes Roots Café’s tag line of “seasoned with aloha” make sense.
Roots Cafe
Description: Hawaiian cuisine
Location: 3123 S. Academy Blvd.
Contact: 719-394-6540
Prices: $6.50 — $12.50
Hours: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
Details: Credit cards accepted. Wi-Fi.
Favorite dishes: Mochiko chicken, kalbi ribs
Other: All gluten-free
