From his debut this time last year, Sabato de Sarno made it clear that his vision for Gucci lived in another world compared to that of his predecessor. The designer told The New York Times, “I’m more real,” emphasizing that rather than creating a universe, he was zeroing in on the one we have, aiming for wearable garments over any film or fantasy. His new spring 2025 collection, shown on a blood-red lacquered runway this afternoon in Milan, continued his sexy-but-down-to-earth dream—albeit with a seductive inflection of 1960s nostalgia. De Sarno’s world may be grounded, but it’s not without its cinematic moments.
The show opened with a streamlined take on a gray flight suit in two pieces—loose, but tailored with mod inflections. He was driving home the point: the still-new Gucci is sleek, and for every day. (“Casual grandeur,” he called it in the show notes.) The garments are elevated and elegant, but few adaptations will be necessary for these runway pieces to blend into existing wardrobes.
The collection moved from grays to browns to deep reds and muted neon yellows. An asymmetric black dress featured cutouts on the chest with gold ornamental detailing calling to mind Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra. The pieces were minimal, sharp, seductive. Many seemed to reference the golden era of Italian cinema. Loose trousers were paired with burgundy-trimmed tank tops and thin monogrammed belts. Lace was a theme, with completely sheer, delicate dresses standing out as particularly strong, beautiful but not overly pretty. Rectangular necklines and almost Elizabethan bodice structures added a certain regality.
The leather pieces were also gorgeous. Mini shorts were paired with tailored leather jackets. Evening coats with shimmering beaded detailing with a matching beaded bag made a statement. A series of retro hats added a sense of drama.
De Sarno appears to be hitting his stride. And the industry seems ready to embrace his luxe, tailored vision.
