Keefer has also tempered his expectations for the launch of his Italian-made 16-piece collection, saying he’ll be pleased if he gets orders from one or two stores. “As long as I put it in front of people, I’ll be happy. Having a lot of doors is not a measure of success right now.”
Rejecting traditional measures of success like show schedules and numbers of stores may be another pandemic legacy.
Joseph Altuzarra, who launched his label in New York, later showed in Paris, and returned last fall to show in New York, upstaged his own show to sell his collection this January in advance of the runway — much like Dries Van Noten routinely does. The early sales period helps production and deliveries, but the show, he says, helps define the collection publicly. Altuzarra saw a boost in sales and attention after showing in New York in September, says Shira Sue Carmi, the label’s chief executive.
“The show is the most important way we have to story-tell around the collection, regardless of how many people are there,” Altuzarra says.
The designer says that Covid has given him an unexpected gift.
“I think it’s redefined my definition of success and failure,” Altuzarra says. “I used to be more afraid to do things because if it didn’t work, it would make me vulnerable.”
“There is this kind of facade that exists in the industry that everyone has to put forth this image of success. I think with the pandemic, everyone was challenged and opened up to each other,” he continues. “That was a big part of why I wanted to come back to New York. I really felt a kinship with the community here.”
With additional reporting by Maghan McDowell, Luke Leitch, Bella Webb and Hilary Milnes.
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