Marni has always had a playful streak and under creative director Meryll Rogge it’s leaning into that harder than ever. For spring/summer 2027, shown in Milan today, Rogge built the collection around the idea of cutting away to see what’s underneath. Exposed linings, cut-outs, and deconstructed seams put the inside of each piece on full display, and even the set played into this, revealing what was there and what had been removed.
The result felt younger and a little grungier than the Marni many of us grew up with, but the brand’s love of clashing print and color was all there, emphasized with Rogge’s influence. The collection, described as “Discovery, for a new chapter,” by the show notes, revealed a modern take on common themes in fashion as of late. Femininity that exposes what’s underneath, Gorpcore that actually feels like it was made for the fashion crowd, and an Anna Wintour appearance made this season at Marni feel extra special. Below, we unpack our favorite themes further.
An Evolution of Meryll Rogge at Marni
Welcome to Meryll Rogge’s second season at Marni. One that feels just as young, innovative, and dashing as the first. Putting her own spin on the classic aesthetic that the brand is known for while remembering the history of what made Marni, Marni. The show closed with Mariacarla Boscono in a black leather shift dress traced with arcs of aquamarine beading, a nod to the brand’s past that Rogge told WWD mattered because Boscono is “such a huge part of the Marni history.”
The New Feminine
Rogge’s womenswear centered on a slim, tubular silhouette, with lots of shift dresses in leather and heavy satin but all of this was deconstructed from a Marni point of view. Some looks came with a porthole cutout at the chest anchored by a chunky belt, while others were covered in the plastic discs that feel instantly on-brand. The outline of a bra was built right into one garment, turning underwear into outerwear a take on dressing up that’s more clever than sweet.
