Cardiologists might disagree, but there can never be too much bacon. This is the idea behind Denver’s Bacon Social House. Yet, in some dishes, there really could be more.
From the decor to the aroma, from the swag to the menu, there’s no forgetting the theme of this popular brunch spot on South Broadway (two other locations are in the Denver metro area).
The bacon flight ($12.75) is the best way to begin. This plate has six slices and a pair of scissors. The shears are used to cut the pieces for sharing. The server identified the flight types, but a card or something to help better remember each would be helpful. The variety changes frequently, but on our visit it included applewood, barbecue, candied, French toast, chile with lime and double chocolate bourbon, which was the bacon of the month.
Surprisingly, each flavor was distinct: the French toast, for example, was all about cinnamon, while the chile lime was reminiscent of spicy tortilla chips. I’ll leave it to your imagination about the double chocolate bourbon; since the ingredients say it all, you’re bound to be right. Yet, the salty, smoky distinct taste of bacon is evident in every slice.
Having sampled the flight, it would be nice to have a choice of one or more included in that assortment — even as an upcharge — in some of the dishes.
Bacon hash ($14.95) is true to its name. Diced sweet potatoes mixed with roasted Hatch green chiles, caramelized onions, sauteed greens and lots, as in pieces in almost every bite, of bacon. Tomato aioli is drizzled over the hash and topped with a poached egg. For an extra $2, add half an avocado for creaminess — and additional plate appeal. There’s no skimping on the bacon here.
On the other hand, er plate, not all the entrees are equal when it comes to bacon. For example, the bodega breakfast sandwich ($13.50) had only a small amount. Still, the combination of sharp cheddar, avocado and pickled onion on a Kaiser roll was tasty and filling. What separates it from a standard morning sandwich are bacon tots. They’re what they sound like: tater tots with bacon bits. Fries may be subbed for the tots, but that would mean less bacon.
The bacon and cheddar biscuit with gravy ($14.95) is massive. By comparison, the size of the poached egg looks like an afterthought. The sausage and sage gravy elevate this Southern favorite. Unfortunately, more was needed since the biscuit was on the dry side, something our server recognized and brought more of. And there was little evidence of bacon.
In case, bacon isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other options. This includes French toast ($13.50) made with challah bread, topped with fresh berries and bourbon caramel. The vanilla whipped cream practically makes this dessert.
This is a fun spot for brunch with bacon-themed references throughout the restaurant, including colorful murals. Servers are called “bacon jockeys,” and it’s evident by their friendly and attentive attitudes they enjoy bringing home the bacon, or at least getting it to the table.
Bacon Social House
Description: Fun, friendly brunch spot
Location: 2160 S. Broadway, Denver
Contact: 1-720-750-8896; www.bacon socialhouse.com
Prices: $11.95 to $17.50
Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday, Wednesday-Friday (Closed Tuesdays); 8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor dining. Carryout. Reservations recommended.
Favorite dishes: Bacon flight and bacon hash.
Other: Gluten-free and vegetarian, but no vegan options.
