Hyaluronic acid (HA) is one of the most well-known skincare ingredients. Renowned for its hydrating and plumping powers, it’s famously said to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, which is why it’s found in so many beauty products. There are HA serums, moisturizers, masks, and even hair products.
What a lot of people don’t realize is that hyaluronic acid can be rendered ineffective by user error. And, yes, user error is a real thing. It might seem like you can simply pat on an HA product and head out the door, but the truth is that it’s a bit more complicated than that. To truly ensure that your skin is hydrated, you need to know 3 specific things. If you don’t, you could inadvertently dry out your skin. Yep. Keep scrolling to get the 411 from top dermatologists.
What Is Hyaluronic Acid?
Noelani González, MD, is a clinical instructor at Mount Sinai Hospital and the founder and director of Seren Dermatology & Aesthetics. She says HA is found naturally in the skin, and it attracts and binds to water molecules. “It can absorb up to 1,000 times its weight in water making it very effective in hydrating and plumping the skin. The hyaluronic acid we see in products is lab derived, and works the same way by attracting water to it and plumping our skin.”
Here’s the thing, though. González says that most HA products are light in texture, which means you need to apply them to your skin at a specific point in your routine. “A good rule of thumb is to apply your skincare from lightest to thickest, so it should be one of your first steps after you cleanse your face, while it’s still damp, and then continue with the rest of your skincare regimen.”
Tip #1: hyaluronic acid should be applied to damp skin—not dry skin.
“Damp” is the key word there. You want to make sure you’re applying HA to damp skin—not dry skin! Take it from Suchismita (Tia) Paul, MD FAAD, a dermatologist and founder of Balanced Skin Dermatology and Aesthetics. “HA works best when applied to slightly damp skin, as it helps to attract and hold onto water,” she says. “Applying HA to damp skin can enhance its hydrating effects. Since HA is a humectant, it draws moisture from its surroundings.”
What Skin Types Is It Best Suited For?
Although it’s suitable for all skin types, includng sensitive skin, Paul says it’s “particularly beneficial for dry, dehydrated, and aging skin due to its hydrating and plumping properties.” The only time you should avoid it is if you (no surprise here) have a rare sensitivity to HA. “Individuals with extremely sensitive skin or those who have had reactions to HA products in the past should perform a patch test first,” she says.
González agrees. “That’s the beauty of hyaluronic acid,” she says. “Anyone can use this ingredient.” She recommends using it twice a day, every day to see the best results in skin hydration.
Tip #2: Hyaluronic acid should be locked in with an occlusive, like a moisturizer. If it’s not, your skin can experience water loss.
Just be sure to lock hyaluronic acid into your skin with an occlusive product, like a moisturizer. If you don’t, you run the risk of actually dehydrating your skin through a process called transepidermal water loss (TEWL). That’s when the air in a dry environment, such as an airplane cabin, pulls moisture from the skin. “Layering an occlusive or a good moisturizer over HA is generally recommended,” Paul says. “While HA draws moisture into the skin, without an occlusive layer, this moisture can evaporate, potentially leading to dehydration of the skin. The occlusive helps to lock in the moisture and enhance the hydrating benefits of HA.”
González agrees. “It does work best when it’s used with a cream on top, and that’s because a cream layered on top with ingredients like ceramide or glycerin will help seal the skin’s barrier and prevent any water loss,.”
