Except for Celine and Jacquemus, nearly all the brands showed as part of the official calendar. Celine presented its menswear collection in a video last week, more than a month after men’s fashion week. “It seems that the standards Hedi Slimane sets for his films make them very long to produce and edit and that would account for the time gap,” says Institut Français de la Mode professor Benjamin Simmenauer. “But does it matter for Celine’s visibility to be in the official calendar?” he adds. (LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault called out the fast growth of the brand during the 2021 earnings results presentation.) Jacquemus is to show his SS22 collection in Hawaii on Wednesday, right after Paris Fashion Week.
Emerging designers in the calendar included Rokh, Ester Manas, Ludovic de Saint Sernin (whose cast included Gigi Hadid), Lecourt Mansion, Kenneth Ize and Germanier. At the LVMH prize showroom, semi-finalists called themselves “pandemic babies” because almost all brands were created during the pandemic.
“It was a challenging fashion week for brands and designers because the context was obviously not favourable to think about fashion and consider fashion as important,” says IFM’s Simmenauer. “For some brands, the main purpose was to show a collection that reflects the house’s heritage and values. Other brands gave a perspective to the moment we are living in.”
Outside the Miu Miu show that closed the curtain on Paris Fashion Week, a young man had a sign that read, “Thanks to all the brands that supported Ukraine during Paris Fashion Week, especially Balenciaga.”
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