The show opened with a series of archetypal garments: a white T-shirt, a formal trouser, a long skirt, an overcoat, a check suit, a denim trouser. But through the lens of improvisation – of self-expression – each classic wardrobe staple had been warped, either magnified or twisted in construction, or imbued with dynamic elements of customisation. Tailoring was expanded in volume and elongated for a legs-for-days effect that was ever so statuesque, and served as a contrast to body-conning tops. Scarves that evoked the feeling of vintage or archival finds were integrated into denim trousers and bags, as well as the padding of a down jacket, in ways that conjured improvised self-customisation. At the core of these looks was a message of individuality: the expressions of the designers who had collaborated on the collection, and the imagined self-expression of the people who will wear them.

